Fashion is an evolving industry that frequently borrows and draws inspiration from a multitude of cultures and traditions. However, there is a thin line between appropriation and appreciation. Some of the world’s most popular fashion brands have been accused of crossing this line, resulting in a heated debate about cultural appropriation. In this article, we explore the concept of cultural appropriation, case studies of top brands guilty of it, its impact on minority cultures, strategies to avoid it, and the role consumers can play.
1. Understanding the Concept of Cultural Appropriation
Cultural appropriation is the adoption or borrowing of elements from a culture by another culture, particularly when the borrowing culture is a dominant or colonizing one, and the culture being appropriated is a marginalized or oppressed one. This concept is often controversial because it can result in the exploitation of the culture being borrowed from, without giving proper credit or understanding the historical and cultural significance of these elements.
While some advocates argue that cultural exchange is a natural part of human interaction, critics of cultural appropriation point out that it often occurs in a context of power imbalance, where the dominant culture takes and benefits from the marginalized culture without permission, understanding, or respect. This makes the act of cultural appropriation inherently exploitative. Furthermore, when cultural elements are removed from their cultural context, they can be misinterpreted, misrepresented, or devalued.
2. Cultural Appropriation vs Appreciation in Fashion
Recognizing the difference between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation is crucial in fashion. Cultural appreciation involves understanding, respect, and acknowledgment of the source culture. It means being mindful of the cultural significance of the elements borrowed and presenting them in a way that honors the source culture.
On the other hand, cultural appropriation occurs when elements of a culture are borrowed without understanding or respect, resulting in the misuse or trivialization of these elements. Moreover, it often involves the dominant culture profiting from the cultural elements of the marginalized cultures. In fashion, this can manifest in designs that exploit sacred symbols, traditional clothing styles, or cultural patterns without giving due credit or context.
3. Case Studies: Top Brands Accused of Cultural Appropriation
Numerous high-end fashion brands have been accused of cultural appropriation over the years. Victoria’s Secret, for instance, received backlash for a lingerie ensemble inspired by Native American traditional dress worn by model Karlie Kloss in their 2012 fashion show. The outfit was criticized for trivializing sacred Native American ceremonial attire.
Gucci faced similar controversy in 2018 for a $790 turban that resembled those worn by Sikhs. Not only was the price point outrageously high for a common cultural garment, but the brand was also criticized for commodifying a religious item. Dolce & Gabbana have also faced backlash for a spring 2016 collection that featured imagery and designs associated with Chinese culture, with critics accusing the brand of exoticizing China and reducing its rich culture to mere aesthetic elements.
4. The Impact of Cultural Appropriation on Minority Cultures
The effects of cultural appropriation on minority cultures are numerous and damaging. Cultural appropriation can result in the devaluation of cultural elements, where sacred symbols or traditional garments are trivialized or reduced to fashion trends. This can lead to a loss of cultural identity, as these elements are stripped of their cultural significance.
Moreover, cultural appropriation can perpetuate harmful stereotypes. When fashion brands use cultural elements without understanding their cultural context, they risk reinforcing stereotypes about those cultures. Furthermore, cultural appropriation can lead to economic exploitation, as brands profit from the use of cultural elements without adequately compensating the communities they are appropriated from.
5. Strategies for Brands to Avoid Cultural Appropriation
To avoid cultural appropriation, fashion brands should prioritize cultural appreciation over appropriation. This begins with comprehensive research and understanding of the cultural elements they wish to incorporate into their designs. They should also ensure they are accurately representing these elements and the cultures they come from.
Consultation with members of the culture being represented is also crucial. This can help avoid misinterpretation and misuse of cultural symbols or elements. A percentage of the profits made from such designs could also be given back to the communities from which they were sourced.
Lastly, brands should be open to criticism and ready to apologize and rectify their mistakes when they occur. This shows a willingness to learn and respect the cultures they are borrowing from.
6. Consumer Role: Supporting Culturally Respectful Fashion Brands
Consumers play a significant role in supporting culturally respectful fashion brands. By consciously choosing to support brands that engage in cultural appreciation rather than appropriation, consumers can influence the fashion industry to prioritize respect for all cultures.
Educating oneself about cultural appropriation, being critical of brands that engage in it, and elevating the voices of those from the cultures being appropriated are ways consumers can help combat cultural appropriation. Furthermore, supporting indigenous and minority designers who incorporate their culture into their designs in a respectful and authentic way can help ensure that the profits from these designs go directly to the communities they represent.
Cultural appropriation in fashion is a complex issue that requires continuous dialogue, education, and accountability from both brands and consumers. By understanding the concept, recognizing the difference between appropriation and appreciation, acknowledging its impact on minority cultures, and actively opting for culturally respectful fashion, we can all contribute to a more inclusive and respectful fashion industry. Ultimately, it is about striking a balance between inspiration and respect, ensuring that the beautiful diversity of our global cultures is appreciated, not exploited.